Taylor Gourmet

1116 H St. NE
Washington, DC 20002
(202) 684 – 7001

It’s really a shame that to find a good sandwich in Washington D.C. you usually have to go somewhere special.  The bastardization of the sandwich has been a work in progress and if Subway is the main culprit – with their $5 foot longs and mystery bread – then the work is almost done.  But not all is lost.  In addition to traditional places (such as Loeb’s) there is a newfound resurgence of modern delis that balance affordability with simple, fresh ingredients.  Taylor Gourmet on H Street (with locations in Bethesda and K street) is one such deli.  Though it will never overtake Subway, Taylor Gourmet gives hope to those looking for a proper hoagie.

Built and developed by owners Casey Patten and David Mazza to resemble the Italian delis of Philadelphia, Taylor pays homage to Italian hoagies made thick with cured meats, sharp aged provolone, and a crusty roll.  But in a twist that deviates away from the traditional, the interior design uses old age materials with a modern influence.  Wood planks, exposed brick, and metal – all things that speak of longevity – play a large part in establishing durability as a fashion statement.  It’s a clean, industrial environment that compliments the refined sandwiches.

The menu provides a nice mix of hoagies, chicken cutlet sandwiches, vegetarian sandwiches, unique salads, and fritto.  Nothing on the menu screams “ordinary.”  Each item is part of a larger narrative that tells the back-story of the owners.  Names like “Race Street”, “Front Street”, and “Schuylkill Expressway” grace the hoagie selection, each with their distinct ingredients and tastes.  The menu is meant to instill loyalty to a few select items.  It is meant to draw you in, to create a lasting connection between you and what ever item(s) you deem as your favorite.

Having looked at the menu beforehand, I entered Taylor with my mind set on the Market Street hoagie with Taylor Home Roasted Pork, Roasted Red Peppers, Arugula, and Fresh Mozzarella.  After laying eyes on the sandwich I was greeted by a level of individualism.  Layer upon layer of pork, peppers, and fresh mozzarella were stuffed into old world Italian loaf with sesame seeds that was more than up to the challenge of keeping these ingredients in order.  With each bite the roasted pork called upon the peppers that in turn called upon the mozzarella to create a flavor that was foolishly unexpected.  The slices of roasted pork were succulent, embellished with the right amount of fat.  The bread kept its firm consistency throughout, never succumbing to the juicy pork or the melted mozzarella.  The best part was knowing that this sandwich had a purpose; it was created with thought and never overstepped the boundaries of what I wanted.  It, like every other item menu, introduces you to the restaurant with a satisfying splash, establishing a sense of wonder that forces you to imagine the possibilities Taylor Gourmet has to offer.

Sandwiches are understandably downplayed and ignored.  Places like Subway have done for sandwiches what McDonalds has done for burgers.  But Taylor Gourmet puts a human element into how their hoagies and other items are made.  It’s a refreshing undertaking that pays homage to a time when delis were representations of places and populations.  In that sense, Taylor Gourmet is a sad reminder of what once was normal but is now a luxury.

–Amendment202

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