Eating DC: El Centro DF

amendment202 June 23, 2011 0

El Centro DF

El Centro D.F.

1819 14th St. NW

Washington D.C. 20009

202.328.3111


Hours:
Monday – Sunday 5pm – 11pm (Dinner)
Sunday – Thursday 11pm to 2am (Late Night)
Friday – Saturday 11pm to 3am (Late Night)

If you’ve read my Pica Taco you know how I feel about Mexican food.  Which is why I was so disappointed after eating at El Centro D.F. on 14th Street.  Don’t get me wrong.  The interior design and the atmosphere are done extremely well.  The addition of a rooftop and a tequileria are much needed and much welcome in the 14th Street area right before the madness of U Street.  And yet all of these great aspects are overshadowed once you actually taste the food.  I was hoping for something that was inimitable, cooked well and, most importantly, spoke of El Centro more than any press release or review ever could.  Instead, what I received just seemed….fabricated.

After looking over the menu and talking to a very friendly waitress I ordered the Jalisco Shrimp & Crab enchilada with Oaxaca cheese, corn, rajas, Crema Fresca, plantain, and cilantro rice.  The dish was very vibrant, the cilantro rice oozed with perceived flavor and the plantains were caramelized with a distinct brown hue.  The enchiladas were prepared in the same manner.  Bright orange with streaks of Crema Fresca and a slice of avocado on each, the enchiladas hit all the right presentational marks.

Once I actually tasted the food, the cosmetic appeal faded and it faded fast.  Before you jump to conclusions regarding my opinion, I must say that I found the food to be alright.  And for most places, that serve this type of fare that would be job well done.  But when you charge someone nearly $20 for one course, you should do better than just the standard.  The rice was cooked well but the cilantro overpowered the rice.  Despite the best efforts of the cook, the cilantro flavor was much too strong and established a singular note throughout that rarely ever ceased.  The plantains were done very well actually.  By far the best part of the meal, they were caramelized and retained their rigid texture.  Naturally sweet and sticky, they were layered with contrasting textures and sensations.

Cilantro Rice & Plantains

The enchiladas were a bit harder to decipher.  The shrimp and crab was fresh, with a distinct crunch every bite.  As standalone ingredients, both of these elements were a nice touch but when paired with everything else the seafood lost its edge.  Moreover, the crab played second fiddle to the shrimp.  The dish bordered on pretentiousness.  The simplicity of the enchilada, the shrimp, and the crab were all engulfed with this perception that it wasn’t enough.  I couldn’t help but feel that the chef tinkered too much with something that deserves little effort.  Instead of allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves, presentation took precedence.

Jalisco Shrimp & Crab enchiladas

No atmosphere or drink menu can cover up uninspired food.  El Centro falls into this category with relative ease.  With Washington D.C. steadily evolving as a city known for its food, places that serve overpriced and mediocre food do more harm than good.  Unfortunately, after eating at El Centro, I cannot help feeling an opportunity was lost.

–Amendment202


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