Taquera Distrito Federal
3463 14th St. NW
Washington, D.C. 20010
202.276.7331
Hours:
Thursday – Saturday 8am–11pm
Sunday – Wednesday 8am–9pm
Outside of ingredients, the setting in which you find yourself goes a long way in determining how much enjoyment you have eating what’s in front you. Usually unintentional – but blatantly obvious when it is – the design of any given establishment lends to the authenticity – or lack thereof. Taquera Distrito Federal is a perfect example of this. A hole-in-the-wall kitchen with a few tables strewn throughout, Taquera moves away from the more streamlined approach of places like Pica Taco, but stays well within the bounds of home-cooked traditionalism.
Looking more like a kitchen in a basement than an actual restaurant, Taquera Distrito Federal is compact at best, cramped at worst. A minor detail really, but important if you considering going with a large group. Simple in every sense, the walls are plastered with pictures of Mexican lore from an earlier time. A large refrigerator line one side of the dining room, filled with large transparent coolers of Horchata, Tamarindo, and Marañon. Everything is imperfect. From the wobbly tables to the walls stained with age, creating an ambiance that embraces a neighborhood fighting the encroaching modernity of upscale re-gentrification.
Within this setting, Taquera produces some of the best Mexican food in Washington, D.C. I ordered three tacos with the following meats:
- Chicarron en Sasla Verde (Pork Skin in Green Sauce)
- Barbacoa Chivo (Goat)
- Lengua (Beef Tongue)
On top of that, I also ordered a Chicken Sope, which consists of a base made from a circle of fried corn dough soaked in lime with pinched sides. Melted crumbled cheese covers the top with lettuce, onions, red sauce, and cream rounding out this delicious creation.
Simply put, the tacos were amazing. Tender and moist, while retaining an absorbent structure, the tacos were deceptively filling. The Chicarron was stewed into submission, balancing a gelatinous texture with a thick flavor that resonated through the green salsa. In direct contrast with the Barbacoa, which was defined by a gamey sensation laced with an appropriate level of heat, the Chicarron was blunt, intentionally lacking refinement. The Lengua as an ingredient is severely underrated. Delicate and robust, the Lengua moved past unnecessary details provided by the cilantro garnish to emerge as something completely different from it’s two other compatriots.
Though the tacos were good, the really highlight was the Chicken Sope. Crispy, with just the right amount of oiliness, it would be an understatement to say it was addictive. With every bite I wanted more. The fried chicken was comforting, recalling familiar flavors. Add in the gooey blanket of cheese and what you have is a dish that uses simplicity to suck you in.
Just like the chicken sope, Taquera’s entire arch is based in the no-thrills techniques of Mexican home cooking. Nothing wows you initially, but the flavor notes all come in at the right time and never overextending their stay. Flowing from one palette to the next, Taquera strings together an equalitarian experience.
–Amendment202
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